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An Oxford shoe is defined by its “closed” lacing system, meaning that its eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp (i.e., the top) of the shoe so that they aren’t visible. Oxfords are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. The shoes are named Oxfords after Oxford University. This shoe style did not appear in North America until the 1800s. In the United States, Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to "Blucher-type" (see Derby). In France, Oxfords are known as Richelieu.

Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800. Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).

The Balmoral is also known as an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt. Oxford shoes are also known by their variation, or style. The Cap-Toe Oxford is the most well-known, although 'Whole Cut', 'Plain Toe', and a variation of 'Brogue' Oxfords are common. Shoes with closed lacing (Oxfords/Balmorals) are considered more formal than Derby’s. 

Jeremy Brogue Oxford City Shoe - Burgundy Bookbinder

SKU: 9599/5-7
Regular price
Unit price
per 
£495.00
Burgundy Black
Sole Guide
Men's Size Guide
Recommended Extras:Shoe Tree Size Guide

An Oxford shoe is defined by its “closed” lacing system, meaning that its eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp (i.e., the top) of the shoe so that they aren’t visible. Oxfords are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. The shoes are named Oxfords after Oxford University. This shoe style did not appear in North America until the 1800s. In the United States, Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to "Blucher-type" (see Derby). In France, Oxfords are known as Richelieu.

Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800. Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).

The Balmoral is also known as an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt. Oxford shoes are also known by their variation, or style. The Cap-Toe Oxford is the most well-known, although 'Whole Cut', 'Plain Toe', and a variation of 'Brogue' Oxfords are common. Shoes with closed lacing (Oxfords/Balmorals) are considered more formal than Derby’s. 

SHOE KNOWLEDGE

Oxford Shoe

An Oxford shoe is defined by its “closed” lacing system, meaning that its eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp (i.e., the top) of the shoe so that they aren’t visible. Oxfords are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. The shoes are named Oxfords after Oxford University. This shoe style did not appear in North America until the 1800s. In the United States, Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to "Blucher-type" (see Derby). In France, Oxfords are known as Richelieu.

Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800. Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).

The Balmoral is also known as an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt. Oxford shoes are also known by their variation, or style. The Cap-Toe Oxford is the most well-known, although 'Whole Cut', 'Plain Toe', and a variation of 'Brogue' Oxfords are common. Shoes with closed lacing (Oxfords/Balmorals) are considered more formal than Derby’s.

LAST NO: W2298

This last has been used for decades. It is part of our history and character as England's oldest shoe manufacturer. The size (length fitting) of Tricker’s footwear made on this last (W2298) is true to size, we recommend sticking to your regular UK Size. If you are unsure of your UK size, use our size guide to convert your known size to a UK size.

The last is a hard, three-dimensional form on which the shoe is constructed. Depending on the style of shoe we use different lasts, this is what dictates the overall shape, proportion, fit and character of the shoe.

Bookbinder

The high shine rub off Bookbinder effect is a coated treatment applied to the leather. Apart from the black, all colours have a darker top and then a lighter shade on the base. During our shoeroom method, we cut back this darker top to bring the lighter shade to the surface giving a two-tone effect. This is created when polished on the mops in our Northampton factory Shoe Room giving the footwear a lustre and gleaming finish indicative of 1930s dress shoes.

Bookbinder is a Corrected Grain. At Tricker's, we source the finest corrected grain leather on the market. The break of corrected leathers is never as natural as with full grain. This break can be made worse across the vamps with ill fitting shoes. The best course of action a customer can take to look after their Bookbinder leather is to purchase shoe trees to keep the shoe in shape and polish regularly to keep the leather nurtured.

Be careful with the aftercare for these shoes. Do not use a renovator as it will strip out the high shine. Sometimes all you need to do is rub these shoes with a clean cloth and they will be beautiful. Less is more with this type of leather.

Why Tricker's?

8 weeks | 260 processes

10 min watch | The Construction Process

8 weeks | 260 processes

10 min watch | The Construction Process

A True Investment

100% Repairable

It's inevitable that shoes will need a bit of TLC from time to time but look after them and they will last you a lifetime.

We offer a fully inclusive repair service from re-heeling to total makeovers.

Uncompromising Standards

Built To Last

Our uncompromising standards of craftsmanship, honest materials, environmentalism and sustainability are values that have been preserved and developed through five generations.

Every material used in our construction can be traced back to its source.